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March 7, 2010

Kauai History and Preparing Kapa

0307waukeKapa is a fabric that was made by native Hawaiians from the bast fibres of certain species of trees. It is similar to tapa found elsewhere in Polynesia but differs in the methods used in its creation. Kapa was used primarily for clothing, while other uses depended on a person’s place in ancient Hawaiian society. Kapa moe (bed covers) were reserved for the aliʻi or chiefly caste while kapa robes were used by kāhuna or priestly caste.

Families would grow their own wauke (paper mulberry) for their use. Tended by both men and women, wauke was grown around the lo`i (taro pond) and nurtured to grow straight and tall. The optimal trees for making fine kapa were from eight to twelve feet tall, and harvested when they are about one to two inches in diameter before they were two years old. As the wauke tree grew, planters cut off the side branches, so a straight trunk stalk without branch holes could later be stripped. Two of the varieties grown in Hawaii that make good kapa are called Laumana or Manalima. Laumana has a straighter growing habit that requires less attention while the Poa’aha tends to produce more branches.

After the trees were harvested, the non-fibrous outer bark (‘ili lepo o waho) was stripped within a few days otherwise it was difficult to remove. Traditionally Hawaiians used various shell implements to scrap away the layers of outer bark which consists of the rough brown bark, a layer of dark green, and pale green beneath. The inner bast fibers (‘i‘o o loko) were then soaked in running water, such as a high tide pool to break down the woody fibers and wash away the starch. More soakings and fermentation followed, resulting in a felted, matted, seamless mass, but leaving the fibers still tough and resilient when finally removed from the waters. At this time in the process, the women of Hawaii would often twist cordage out of the fibers, for use as fish nets (upena) and as carrying nets (koko) from which to hang calabashes of wood and gourds.

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